Pumpkin Hummus

Do I like pumpkin? You could say that. After some intense psychoanalysis, it's still unclear whether I love pumpkins because they're orange (my favorite color) and associated with Halloween (my favorite holiday) or vice versa. A very Freudian chicken-or-the-egg conundrum. 

I want them all.

Each year, I usually spend all of September and October musing about pumpkin, cooking with pumpkin,  consuming pumpkin, and curating--oh, who the fuck am I kidding--buying every pumpkin-flavored product I can get my hands on.  But I like to think (seriously) that God sends me signs, sometimes literally, and two days ago I ran into this placard. 

And, so it begins, August 16th, 2017, albeit slowly because I have other food projects to finish and obviously not everyone has their pumpkin shit together as early as Valero Corner Store. 

Plain hummus is fun; pumpkin hummus is funner. And just as easy to make.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons water

• 1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• 2/3 cup pumpkin puree (canned is fine)

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic

• 1/2 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary 

• Salt to taste

Directions

1. Blend all ingredients except rosemary in food processor until smooth.

2. Fold in minced rosemary.

3. Eat with pita, or in a pinch, potato chips.

Stuffed Grape Leaves Series: Part I

Stuffed grape leaves are a staple mezze in Syrian cuisine, and while assembling the stuffing isn't particularly difficult, I was somewhat intimidated by the rolling-of-the-leaves requirement. I worried that I couldn't roll the leaves sufficiently taut as not to fall apart in the boiling process, thereby creating a noxious soup of soggy leaves, vegetables, stray rice, and meats bits. Rather than potentially ruin some quality (and pricey) ground lamb on the first go, I decided to practice by making an unconventional version using some leftovers and this handy pictorial guide.

Rice, dill, garlic, and shrimp with rice made from lobster stock.

Among these leftovers were pre-cooked shrimp and lobster stock, the latter of which, I should be clear, is not a regular in my fridge but rather a special guest that appeared to due me making lobster rolls on a very expensive whim the week earlier. Boiling the shit out of two lobster shells produced about 2 cups of fragrant, slightly sweet stock that I used to cook about 1 cup of rice. I combined the cooked rice with about 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh dill and 2 tablespoons of minced garlic along with 1 cup of chopped (cooked) shrimp.

After some finagling and only a few duds, I had assembled a small pyramid of rolled grape leaves. I arranged them in a single layer in a saucepan and added what remaining lobster stock I had such that the liquid just barely covered the leaves. Most recipes will then instruct you to simmer on very low heat for about 1 hour but I found 45 minutes was sufficient.

The result: Me Not Fail. The rolls kept their shape and the grape leaves lost any residual bitterness via the infusion of lobster stock, taking on a slightly sweet flavor, as did the tender rice. Dill threads and garlic added an earthy twang that contrasted nicely with the briny shrimp. I would definitely make them again ASAP, but I'm confident enough now in my rolling skills to go on to a more traditional style with lamb, cumin, rice, sultanas, and nuts.

Sit Geleila: "Respected Lady" Salad

About a year ago, my father- and mother-in-law presented us with a wonderful assortment of vegetables pickled and canned by a local vendor from their home in Maine. Between the two of us, we buy more food than necessary,  so embarrassingly some of these treats remained buried in my pantry, whose disordered culinary copia would surely  would make me eligible for a televised intervention on Hoarders. 

Serves 6-8 or 1 Joanna 2 nights in a row

I was initially charmed by the charming translation of Sit Geleila, then further excited by the possibility of swapping the pickled turnips for beets given their similar flavor profile. Incidentally, beet juice is used for coloring in the traditional form of the recipe, so I wasn't straying too much from authenticity. 

Messy mise-en-place.

Sit Geleila is by far the best mezze I have made this year. There is something about how the nuttiness of the cumin complements the acidic twang of the onions and sweetness of the beets that makes it incredibly refreshing yet filling. This dish is one of the few that doesn't not benefit from extra olive oil because you really don't want the rich fats to overwhelm the simpler botanical flavors.  

A lovely lunch or main accompaniment.

Ingredients

• 14 ounces pickled turnips (or beets) chopped into small chunks

• 1 small onion chopped

• 2 teaspoons cumin, ground from fresh seeds

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

Directions

1. Slice turnips or beets into bite-size chunks.

2. Add chopped onion, cumin, and olive oil. 

3. Mix vigorously to combine. Serve immediately if eating indoors or chill in the fridge a bit for al fresco celebrations.

Breaking Fast: Dates

There is a little less a week left to Ramadan, and I have neglected to write about one of my favorite customs with regards to the holiday: the breaking of fast (iftar) with dates (tmar).

The association between dates and breaking the day's fast is has religious as well as practical roots. “When one of you is fasting, he should break his fast with dates," said The Prophet Muhammed, "but if he cannot get any, then (he should break his fast) with water, for water is purifying.“

But dates are also in many ways an ideal first food to consume when you haven't eaten in approximately 12 hours. Dates are high in sugar, but have a low glycemic index, which mean they help stabilize blood sugar rather than create those spikes that render you flying high as a kite one minute to absolutely wiped the next. Dates are also easily digested but high in fiber, so, in theory, they fill you up and prevent you from over-eating at the evening meal. In theory.  Pretty sure I could eat a pound and still have room for a double-quarter-pound.

Although I could have easily picked up some dried dates at the supermarket, I decided in the spirit of Going Through All the Food Products I Have Hoarded (#lifegoals) to sample the date spread i received from Try the World.

And, while eating the spread straight from the jar is perfectly acceptable, I decided to kill two birds with one stone and use it as a spread for the scones I had been planning to make this evening.

Recipe: Tabbouleh (Couscous style)

You learn something new every day, and yesterday, I learned two new things. First, Randall's on Holcombe Blvd. does not sell bulgur wheat. Second, some forms of traditional tabbouleh are made with couscous. This latter fact was especially heartening, especially since the former revelation initially caused a certain woman craving a refreshing Syrian mezze much consternation. And with a box already at home, she didn't even have to rely on Randall's for the couscous. Suck it, Randall's. (Just kidding. Thanks for the sale on parsley!)

Bulgur wheat gives rise to a grittier, heartier tabbouleh, while couscous tends to soften what is otherwise a very fibrous mixture. I find it also absorbs olive oil more readily, so don't over-pour lest you want your salad very slick. 

Ingredients

• 1 cup cooked couscous

• 1 bunch of parsley (about 2 cups chopped)

• 1 medium tomato (about 3/4 cup chopped)

• 1 small white onion (about 3/4 cup chopped)

• 3/4 cup chopped mint

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 3 tablespoons lemon juice

Directions

1. Cook couscous according to instructions; usually, this involves a 1.5:1 ratio of hot water to rice.

2. Combine all vegetable ingredients in a deep bowl.

3. Incorporate cooled couscous vigorously into mixture.

4. Add liquid ingredients and toss such that salad is liberally coated.

5. Eat right away.

Recipe: Sujuk (Syrian sausage...sort of) With Hummus

Sujuk is apparently a very common Syrian dish as well as a specialty of Damascus but I managed not to eat it during my two trips. I even dined twice at Naranj, where SyrianFoodieinLondon enjoyed sujuk with hummus and it escaped my notice. Fail. One more reason why it's important to do research before you visit a country in order to compile a comprehensive eating itinerary. But also another reason (as if I needed more) to return to Syria.

Ingredients

• Hummus (duh)

• 1 pound minced lamb

• 1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter)

• 2 teaspoons paprika

• 2 teaspoons dried chili flakes

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic (or garlic powder if you're strapped)

• 2 teaspoons allspice

Directions

1. Pan-fry the lamb in ghee until it just begins to turn brown.

2. Add garlic and spices.

3. Lower heat and cook until all water has evaporated and lamb begins to get crispy (but not dry!). Might take 20-30 minutes. 

Spoon onto hummus and eat straight with a spoon. Or, with pita bread if others are watching.

Recipe: Fatayer

I'm trying to step it up a notch with regards to the complexity of the recipes I'm attempting, and to that end, I made fatayer this past weekend. Fatayer (spinach pies) are popular all over the Middle East and a staple of mezze menus in Damascus. The biggest challenge is shaping the dough into compact triangles around a heaping tablespoon or so of filling. After a few false starts, I got the hang of it. If you don't have time to make dough, you can use store-bought pie crust.

DOUGH

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon active dry yeast

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1 cup warm water

• 3 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/3 cup vegetable oil

DIRECTIONS

1. Activate yeast by dissolving it in 1/4 cup of warm water with sugar. Let rest 10 minutes.

2. Whisk together flour and salt in a medium bowl. With a spoon, create a well or small gap in the center of the dry mixture and add the oil and yeast mixture. 

3. Using an electric mixer, slowly combine the wet and dry ingredients. Add the remaining 3/4 cup of water slowly. 

4. Remove dough from bowl (will be sticky) and knead by hand about 5 minutes or until dough is firm.

5. Spritz a large bowl with cooking spray. Transfer dough into bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let dough rest until doubled in size (about 1.5 hours).

Lovely pockets of goodness.

FILLING & PIES

Ingredients

• 2 lbs frozen chopped spinach (thawed and patted until completely dry)

• 1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

• 1/2 cup pine nuts

• sesame seeds for dusting

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine spinach, onion, salt, lemon juice, cinnamon, and pine nuts.

 

2.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

3. Dust a large cutting board or surface with flour. Roll out the dough to 1/8 thickness and cut into circles (you can use a water glass) roughly 4 inches in diameter. Reknead dough and repeat until all dough is used up.

4. Place a tablespoon or so of filling in center of each dough circle. Fold sides around fillings to form a triangle. This recipe has some helpful photos.

5. Place fatayer on baking sheets and brush with olive oil. Sprinkle liberally with sesame seeds. Bake for 18-20 minutes until brown.

Serve hot to guests; eat cold leftovers the next day for breakfast.

Love For Liver, Part II: Chicken Livers With Pomegranate Molasses

This weekend chicken livers were on sale at Kroger, which means they cost a cheek-slappingly low 90 cents(!) instead of $1.42. Seriously, when was the last time you could buy a pound of meat that provides 487% of your RDA of iron for less than a dollar?

Syrian Foodie in London claims this recipe is for one of his very favorites, and after preparing it, I'm happy to say now it's one of mine, too. Its success is due to the rich balance of butter, booze, and fruity sweetness. Btw, if you can't find ghee at your local supermarket (check the foreign foods section), you can clarify butter yourself.

Ingredients

• 1/2 pound chicken livers

• 1 tablespoon ghee

• 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

• 3.5 ounces of red wine

• Salt and pepper

• 1 tablespoon cold butter

Directions

1.  Pan fry the chicken livers in ghee until they are brown on the outside.

2. Add molasses, red wine, salt, and pepper.

3. Cook livers one or two minutes more, just until tender.

4. Remove livers and reduce sauce by a quarter.  

5. Add  cold butter to sauce and mix thoroughly. Pour on top of livers and serve with bread or rice.

Love For Liver, Part I: Kebdeh Mtajaneh

One of my many culinary-writing goals is to compose a cookbook comprising only recipes for liver (from all different animals).  People who discount the edible potential of this organ due to its metallic taste (easily masked or eradicated through proper preparation) are missing out not only on a terrific offal experience but also on an incredibly cheap powerhouse source of nutrients.

I spend a lot of time reading Syrian Foodie in London for inspiration, so when I came across not one but TWO recipes involving liver, I was extremely excited. And, remarkably, I had all the ingredients on hand already save the liver itself.

Like Syrian Foodie in London, I substituted chicken livers for the more traditional lamb livers due to the former's availability. But next pass I will try the latter if I can track some down.  Recipe below is slightly adapted from the original.

Ingredients

• 1 pound chicken livers

• 2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons chopped garlic

• 2 tablespoons chopped coriander

• 1 red chili (chopped)

• Salt

• Pepper

• Lemon

Directions

1. Pat chicken livers completely dry with paper towel.

2. Remove any gristle. Or not. (I like the little fatty bits.)

3. Heat olive on medium heat in a wide saucepan.

4. Add liver, garlic, and chili. Cook for about 6-8 minutes until livers show just a smidge of pink.

5. Add coriander, some salt and pepper, then cook until livers are just brown (about 2 more minutes). You want the livers to be tender, so don't overcook.

6. Garnish with more coriander and squeeze of lemon.

I ate this liver with some popcorn and a nice Chardonnay. 

Recipe: (Just) Mutubal

Last June I made  mutubal shawandar, which despite its garish color exacerbated by my bad food photography, was light, lovely, and incredibly refreshing in the height of the humid season.

This week I embarked on a brief vegan challenge with my favorite masshole Zach and therefore was limited in what Syrian recipes I could test. Not that there's any dearth of vegetable-heavy dishes in that country's culinary canon, for as in many Western nations, Syrians use meat more often for garnish and flavoring rather than as the main event. 

Mutubal is as simple to make as mutubal shawandar as the former swaps out beets for roasted eggplant. It should be noted that eggplants are not in season. It should also be noted that I do not care because I LOVE EGGPLANT AND NO ONE WILL STOP ME FROM EATING IT. This is basically me:

Mucho credit to Cousin Phil at Deviant Art.

But I otherwise I really try to eat what's in season, I swear. Here is a short and sweet recipe for mutubal, adapted from FashionEdible.

INGREDIENTS
2 cups roasted eggplant (chopped)
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons tahini
1/2 cup plain yogurt (or silken tofu if you're on a vegan challenge)
1/2 lemon (juiced)

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Slice eggplant into discs no thicker than one half inch.

3. Coat each disc liberally with salt and arrange them so they line the insides of a colander.

4. "Sweat" eggplant slices for approximately 15 minutes. Rinse and pat dry.

5.  Arrange eggplant on foil-lined baking sheet and spritz with olive oil spray. Roast in oven for 20-30 minutes.

6. Remove eggplant from oven and chop into cube-size pieces.

7. Combine eggplant with garlic, tahini, yogurt, and lemon juice in a food processor or blender. Pulse into smooth.

8. Garnish with olive oil.

Muhammara For the Win!

1. Guacamole meet your Middle Eastern match: Muhammara.  Although not strictly Syrian, Muhammara seemed particularly appropriate to make for the Superbowl since that's the one day each year when consuming nothing but dip and chips for dinner is practically your patriotic duty.

You know what's also your patriotic duty? Welcoming immigrants and refugees. Because I'm willing to bet your great-great-grandma was one. But I digress.

Muhammara is extremely easy to make if you're luck enough to have a food processor. If you're not, little birds on the interwebs tell me that a mortar and pestle and a blender can also help, too. 

The recipe below (slightly adapted) is from the New York Times:

Ingredients

• 1 large roasted red bell pepper, chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped onions

• 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 3 teaspoons pomegranate molasses

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• 1/2 cup walnuts

• 5 tablespoons bread crumbs (or cracker crumbs, in a pinch)

Directions

1. In a large bowl, mix together pepper, scallions, lemon juice, cumin, salt, 2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses, 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, 3 tablespoons olive oil, and walnuts (but save 2 or 3 for garnish!).

2. Add mixture to food processor and purée until smooth.

3. Add bread crumbs and pulse again. Season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. 

4. Transfer to a bowl. Use a tablespoon to make a small well in the center. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses, and 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes into the well. Garnish with remaining walnuts.

Recipe: Mutabal Shawandar

I didn't have time this weekend to make anything complicated, but in truth even if I did have the extra hours, the excessively hot temperatures had me craving simple, cold foods.  Although at some point, I must try my hand at basic hummus, I was drawn to this recipe for its potential to yield a healthful cool dip robust in flavor as well as color. 

EXTREME BEET GARLIC CLOSE-UP

Syrian Cooking's ingredient list (garlic, canned or fresh beets, tahini, olive oil) is straight-forward as are the directions. I would add only that if you used canned beets, especially beet strings, the boiling process is not necessary. 

What is imperative is ample olive oil for creaminess and quality tahini, which provides wonderful nutty notes that balance the sweet botanical flavor of the beets and the tangy garlic.

I am not ashamed to say I ate much of my product with a spoon; however, pita toasts are probably more dignified.

Tabouleh Trials

Second attempt at Syrian cuisine was again an exercise in simplicity (I hoped). I googled "Syrian tabouli" (change in spelling noted) and used the first recipe I found on syriancooking.com.  It is one of the most comprehensive Syrian food blogs on the web with a diverse array of recipes for appetizers, mains, desserts, and side dishes.

Is it completely blasphemous that I used Spanish olive oil and paprika?

Unfortunately, halfway through the preparation I discovered the ingredient portions were incomplete, specifically the amount of paprika: "1/2 [WHAT??] paprika."  So, I had to guesstimate based on other recipes' proportions. 

The result was nevertheless delicious, though the texture a bit rough thanks to my rather frantic chopping skills, which gave rise to inconsistently sized vegetable chunks.

Tabouleh landscape.

To be refined at a later date...