Or, actually, Ice Cream: A Global History. This book isn't the only history of ice cream in the field, but one of the few that seems vaguely academically diligent (i.e., uses citations).
I read about 50 pages on Sunday and was heartily entertained and fairly impressed. Weiss's writing style is lively and clear. If only she had delved deeper into some of the anecdotes surrounding the origins of ice cream and ice cream confections. Probably she was restricted by the series format.
Anyway, the first of many manuals I need to consult for this project. Recommendations, welcome!