Tahini Chocolate Chip Cookies

Last week was challenging for many reasons but I am grateful for friends, family, and work colleagues that made me laugh through some of the absurdities. Also, special thanks to Wyatt, who made the most delicious papusas, which I gorged myself on almost every night.  Delightfully, I found a splendid way to engage in some Syrian fusion experimentation as well as self-medication by making tahini chocolate chip cookies using an adapted recipe from a paper that does not publish fake news despite what Cheeto-in-Chief may say. 

Tahini Chocolate Chip Cookies

Ingredients

• 8 tablespoons butter

• ½ cup tahini, well stirred

• 1 cup granulated sugar

• 1 large egg

• 1 egg yolk

• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 1 cup flour

• ½ teaspoon baking soda

• ½ teaspoon baking powder

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 ¾ cups semi-sweet chocolate chips

•  Flaky salt, like fleur de sel or Maldon

Or eat raw if you're really struggling.

Directions

1. In a large bowl, cream butter, tahini, and sugar at medium speed using an electric mixer.

2. Add egg, egg yolk, and vanilla and continue mixing at medium speed for another 5 minutes.

3. Sift flour, baking soda, baking powder, and kosher salt into a large bowl and mix with a fork.

4. Add flour mixture to butter mixture at low speed until just combined. Fold in chocolate chips.  Refrigerate dough for about 8 hours. Or not.

5. Shape into balls and bake for about 12 minutes on parchment paper lined cookie sheet in oven preheated to 325 degrees.

6. Eat while watching this.

Pumpkin Hummus

Do I like pumpkin? You could say that. After some intense psychoanalysis, it's still unclear whether I love pumpkins because they're orange (my favorite color) and associated with Halloween (my favorite holiday) or vice versa. A very Freudian chicken-or-the-egg conundrum. 

I want them all.

Each year, I usually spend all of September and October musing about pumpkin, cooking with pumpkin,  consuming pumpkin, and curating--oh, who the fuck am I kidding--buying every pumpkin-flavored product I can get my hands on.  But I like to think (seriously) that God sends me signs, sometimes literally, and two days ago I ran into this placard. 

And, so it begins, August 16th, 2017, albeit slowly because I have other food projects to finish and obviously not everyone has their pumpkin shit together as early as Valero Corner Store. 

Plain hummus is fun; pumpkin hummus is funner. And just as easy to make.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons water

• 1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

• 2/3 cup pumpkin puree (canned is fine)

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic

• 1/2 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary 

• Salt to taste

Directions

1. Blend all ingredients except rosemary in food processor until smooth.

2. Fold in minced rosemary.

3. Eat with pita, or in a pinch, potato chips.

Stuffed Grape Leaves Series: Part I

Stuffed grape leaves are a staple mezze in Syrian cuisine, and while assembling the stuffing isn't particularly difficult, I was somewhat intimidated by the rolling-of-the-leaves requirement. I worried that I couldn't roll the leaves sufficiently taut as not to fall apart in the boiling process, thereby creating a noxious soup of soggy leaves, vegetables, stray rice, and meats bits. Rather than potentially ruin some quality (and pricey) ground lamb on the first go, I decided to practice by making an unconventional version using some leftovers and this handy pictorial guide.

Rice, dill, garlic, and shrimp with rice made from lobster stock.

Among these leftovers were pre-cooked shrimp and lobster stock, the latter of which, I should be clear, is not a regular in my fridge but rather a special guest that appeared to due me making lobster rolls on a very expensive whim the week earlier. Boiling the shit out of two lobster shells produced about 2 cups of fragrant, slightly sweet stock that I used to cook about 1 cup of rice. I combined the cooked rice with about 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh dill and 2 tablespoons of minced garlic along with 1 cup of chopped (cooked) shrimp.

After some finagling and only a few duds, I had assembled a small pyramid of rolled grape leaves. I arranged them in a single layer in a saucepan and added what remaining lobster stock I had such that the liquid just barely covered the leaves. Most recipes will then instruct you to simmer on very low heat for about 1 hour but I found 45 minutes was sufficient.

The result: Me Not Fail. The rolls kept their shape and the grape leaves lost any residual bitterness via the infusion of lobster stock, taking on a slightly sweet flavor, as did the tender rice. Dill threads and garlic added an earthy twang that contrasted nicely with the briny shrimp. I would definitely make them again ASAP, but I'm confident enough now in my rolling skills to go on to a more traditional style with lamb, cumin, rice, sultanas, and nuts.

Aleppo Pepper

For more than a year, I’ve had this article (see above) I clipped from a food magazine tapped to the corner of my work computer. I have read it probably a dozen times, and of course (unlike those Harry Potter newspapers that magically update themselves), the message doesn’t change: much of the spice labeled “Aleppo pepper” sold in the United States right now is actually from the Turkish province of Kahramanmaras because of the on-going war in Syria.

Aleppo Pepper

Aleppo pepper is distinctive for its sweet, almost fruity, smoky flavor, which makes other varieties seem so Plain Jane in comparison. It’s commonly used in marinades for kebabs or sprinkled on grilled vegetables.

I keep this article posted as a reminder of my own personal commitment to cook Syrian food as a way to simultaneously bring attention to the conflict and remind others, and often myself, that the country should be defined by more than its political strife.

I also kick myself each time after reading it for not picking up a ton of pepper during my travels in Syria. But Reason #99 to return when things ‘calm down,’ a wonderful term I picked up from my father who uses it frequently to describe regions under siege where the specifics of what eventual 'peace' might emerge are uncertain.

Back To Basics: Aleppo Seven-Spice Mix

Approximately three minutes before I planned to announce to Wyatt that on Sunday I would cook a semi-complicated Syrian dish for supper, he announced, as is his wont, that he was making Sunday Gravy. That same day (duh).  

Then, cinnamon.

Wyatt goes all out for Sunday gravy, procuring various cuts of high-quality meats, plus loads of tomatoes, naturally, and more vegetables from our garden. The whole thing simmers for hours, first, filling our house with an intoxicating umami scent, then filling our bellies, and finally, filling our fridge with leftovers, because he always makes 10 times too much. 

Next, ground black pepper.

Well, me wanted Sunday Gravy and me also wanted to make something Syrian.

Also, nutmeg.

I thumbed to the beginning of my cookbook and picked something simple that I would certainly use repeatedly at later dates: Aleppo Spice Mix.

And, cardamom.

The fact that I didn't make this earlier is pretty shameful, considering it's the go-to spice mix for many Syrian dishes and most introductions to Syrian cooking strongly advise procuring/making your own first. 

...cloves...

But I have never been good at following directions. If you've following along picture page-style, you already know most of the components. See below for proportions.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons ground allspice

• 1 tablespoon cinnamon

• 1/2 tablespoon black pepper

• 1/2 tablespoon grated nutmeg

• 1/2 tablespoon cardamom pods

• 3/4 teaspoon ground cloves

• 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

Directions

Combine all spices and store in air-tight container. 

*If you're feeling extra-fancy, roast the cardamom pods over low heat before combining.

Sit Geleila: "Respected Lady" Salad

About a year ago, my father- and mother-in-law presented us with a wonderful assortment of vegetables pickled and canned by a local vendor from their home in Maine. Between the two of us, we buy more food than necessary,  so embarrassingly some of these treats remained buried in my pantry, whose disordered culinary copia would surely  would make me eligible for a televised intervention on Hoarders. 

Serves 6-8 or 1 Joanna 2 nights in a row

I was initially charmed by the charming translation of Sit Geleila, then further excited by the possibility of swapping the pickled turnips for beets given their similar flavor profile. Incidentally, beet juice is used for coloring in the traditional form of the recipe, so I wasn't straying too much from authenticity. 

Messy mise-en-place.

Sit Geleila is by far the best mezze I have made this year. There is something about how the nuttiness of the cumin complements the acidic twang of the onions and sweetness of the beets that makes it incredibly refreshing yet filling. This dish is one of the few that doesn't not benefit from extra olive oil because you really don't want the rich fats to overwhelm the simpler botanical flavors.  

A lovely lunch or main accompaniment.

Ingredients

• 14 ounces pickled turnips (or beets) chopped into small chunks

• 1 small onion chopped

• 2 teaspoons cumin, ground from fresh seeds

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

Directions

1. Slice turnips or beets into bite-size chunks.

2. Add chopped onion, cumin, and olive oil. 

3. Mix vigorously to combine. Serve immediately if eating indoors or chill in the fridge a bit for al fresco celebrations.

Zarda (Saffron Rice Pudding)

I have been very slowly reading through recipes in my new Syrian cookbook, and had planned this week to make an intriguing salad involving mint and pickled beets, but after an unexpectedly stressful week at work and some late nights, I needed a bit of comfort food as a reward. I also needed (#firstworldproblems) to use at least some of the massive bag of saffron I lugged home from Thailand. 

It was so cheap! I had to buy tons.

For me, rice pudding is the perfect eat-your-feelings food because it combines pure sugar and carbohydrates and its texture is so delightfully spoonable. I remember reading in Comfort Me With Apples how Ruth Reichl ate an entire pot of rice pudding one fretful evening standing up by the stove and I could totally relate. I also liked the backstory of zarda, which apparently was the equivalent of the cupcake in 16th-century Ottoman Syria as it was the go-to dessert for celebrations.  The recipe below is adapted from The Aleppo Cookbook.

Ingredients

• 1 cup short-grain white rice

• 1 tsp ground saffron plus a few errant whole threads

• 4 cups water

• 1 cup sugar

• 3 tablespoons orange blossom water

• Handful of almonds or pistachios

Directions

1. Combine ground saffron with 3 tablespoons hot water and let steep 15-20 minutes.

2. Wash rice thoroughly and combine with water in a medium-size saucepan.  Cover and warm over medium heat until water is boiling vigorously.

3. Lower heat and add saffron. Simmer on very low heat until rice is very soft (about 30 minutes).

4. When there is just a splash of liquid left in rice, add sugar and orange blossom water. Mix thoroughly and remove from heat.  Rest on adjacent burner until remaining liquid is absorbed.

5. Garnish with almonds to taste. If you like a creamier pudding, eat immediately, even out of the pot, but sit down for God's sake, you've had a long day. For a thicker, sturdier pudding, refrigerate for one hour.

A Freekah Feast For Eid-al-Fitr

Tonight marks Eid-al-Fitr, the end of Ramadan and in the spirit of gratitude and fellowship through the fusion of food and culture, I made freekah pilaf and a smoked turkey. Well, okay, Wyatt made the turkey unprovoked but I thought including the signature American Thanksgiving dish in the feast a fitting gesture. Although the smells that wafted from our backyard smoker were enough to make me swoon, I was even more excited for the freekah perhaps because just procuring this hearty Middle Eastern grain was an adventure that involved several false leads, multiple trips to different grocery stores, and eventual triumph at Wholefoods.

Someone else made this.

Freekah Pilaf

Ingredients

• 1-2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1/2 cup diced white onion

• 1 cup freekah

• 1 teaspoon allspice

• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

• 1/2 teaspoon pepper

• 2 cups chicken stock

• Salt to taste

Directions

1. Brown onions in olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat.

2. Add freekah, allspice, cinnamon, and pepper. Toast grains and spices for 5-8 minutes. Watch carefully and reduce heat if necessary as not to burn.

3. Add chicken stock and reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for approximately 30 minutes.

4. Remove from heat when grains are soft and all liquid has evaporated. Do not overcook; it should not be creamy. 

Serve with smoked turkey and fresh watermelon juice.

Polo, Revisited.

It is upon us.

I'm referring to Summer, also known affectionately as "hell" by Houston residents, including myself, who must brace themselves almost daily for triple-digit temperatures and high humidity. You know it's really hot when a part of you wishes there would be a tropical storm to cool things down.  

But let's leave mass-spread devastation by Mother Nature for another day, and enjoy a more modest means of refreshment in the form of a wonderful Syrian drink called polo. I first wrote about polo last year in the dead of "winter" in Houston, and it seems fitting now I revisit the recipe not only because it is now Summer With A Capital 'S' but also because my agrarian-inclined husband has built a thriving rooftop garden that is yielding, among other botanicals, scores of fresh mint.

Twilight in the Garden of Good & Fertile.

Ingredients

• 4 cups of cold water

• 5 lemons, juiced

• 6 tablespoons sugar

• 1.5 cups of fresh mint, rinsed and drained

• 1 teaspoon orange blossom water.

Directions

1. Blend on high in blender; strain out bits. Or not, if you like some pulp in your drink.

Breaking Fast: Dates

There is a little less a week left to Ramadan, and I have neglected to write about one of my favorite customs with regards to the holiday: the breaking of fast (iftar) with dates (tmar).

The association between dates and breaking the day's fast is has religious as well as practical roots. “When one of you is fasting, he should break his fast with dates," said The Prophet Muhammed, "but if he cannot get any, then (he should break his fast) with water, for water is purifying.“

But dates are also in many ways an ideal first food to consume when you haven't eaten in approximately 12 hours. Dates are high in sugar, but have a low glycemic index, which mean they help stabilize blood sugar rather than create those spikes that render you flying high as a kite one minute to absolutely wiped the next. Dates are also easily digested but high in fiber, so, in theory, they fill you up and prevent you from over-eating at the evening meal. In theory.  Pretty sure I could eat a pound and still have room for a double-quarter-pound.

Although I could have easily picked up some dried dates at the supermarket, I decided in the spirit of Going Through All the Food Products I Have Hoarded (#lifegoals) to sample the date spread i received from Try the World.

And, while eating the spread straight from the jar is perfectly acceptable, I decided to kill two birds with one stone and use it as a spread for the scones I had been planning to make this evening.

Recipe: Simple Syrian Roast Chicken

While driving to work this week, I was compiling a list of ingredients in my head I needed to buy to make this Syrian roast chicken and potatoes dish when suddenly I found myself behind an SUV with a single, ominous bumper sticker: "Eat Rice. Not Potatoes. Today!" So random, so weird, but I took it as a sign from God and decided to just make the chicken. And make rice, maybe.

Most recipes for this dish involve just roasting parts (usually legs or thighs) of the bird, but I like the presentation of a whole chicken. Plus, I found a large one on sale for $3 at Randall's. 

My general advice with roasting a chicken is 1) Make sure that birdie is patted as dry as possible to ensure a crispy crust and 2) Be aggressive and thorough in your application of oil and spices and 3) A meat thermometer is very, very helpful and may prevent you from making you and your guests sick.

Ingredients

• 1 medium-to-large chicken

• 3 tablespoons good olive oil

• 1/2 cup chopped garlic

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 3 tablespoons (or more) ground cumin

• salt

• pepper

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line roasting pan large enough for chicken with foil; spritz well with vegetable oil spray.

2. Using paper towels, pat chicken completely dry. Trim any excess nubbies of fat if you like from butt. The chicken's butt, not yours.

3. Dust chicken generously with salt.

4. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, garlic, and lemon juice.

5. Massage (yes, get those hands dirty) entire chicken with oil mixture, making sure to coat all surfaces.

6. Sprinkle ground cumin over chicken, then a wee bit more salt, and as much pepper as desired.

7. Roast in oven for at least 1 hour if not 1 hour and 25 minutes. To test progress of chicken, insert meat thermometer in thickest part of the thigh. When it clocks in at 165 degrees Fahrenheit, you should be good to go.

A roast chicken is useful in so many ways in addition to providing fodder for multiple meals. I like to keep the bones for stock and any rendered fat for chopped liver.

Syrian-Style Burger

Subject of picture now missing...

A quick post to reassure readers I haven't abandoned the project; just a bit busy this week with other writing. Expect more recipes and experimentation next week!  

What's a girl to do when her personal chef (and life partner) is away and there's a surplus of leftover buns, lamb meat, home-grown tomatoes at the peak of freshness, and fresh mint?

Quick answer: Make a burger. I seasoned my half-pound of ground lamb with allspice and pepper in addition to the cumin, then cooked it rare in a skillet with olive oil. Garnishes included the tomatoes, parsley, and a schmear of hummus.  Holding it all together was a toasted butter bun made by my inamorato the night before he left. 

My First Maqluba

Since we're living in a bizarro, upside-down world, why not eat something similarly inverted (albeit far more palatable)? Time then for maqluba,  whose final presentation is achieved by flipping the dish to reveal a stratified plateau of meat, vegetables, and rice.  

Maqluba appears in varying forms in different schools of Middle Eastern cookery, though virtually all involve some form of animal protein (usually lamb), cauliflower and/or eggplant, cooked rice, and multiple spices. 

Ingredients

• 1 pound lamb meat (stew meat or extracted from chops)

• 2-3 cups chicken stock

• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary

• 1/4 cup chopped onions

• 1 tablespoon allspice

• 1/4 cup minced garlic

• 1 cup grilled sliced eggplant

• 1/2 cup chopped steamed cauliflower

• 2 cups rice

• 1/4 cups nuts (pistachios are ideal; I used cashews)

Directions

1. Combine lamb meat, 1-2 cups of stock, rosemary, onions, and allspice in a small saucepan. Cook uncovered over low-medium heat until lamb chunks are just barely pink inside.

2. Remove meat from any remaining stock and mix with garlic in a separate bowl.

3. Use all remaining stock (including that left in the saucepan) to cook rice until moist and fluffy. Place in separate bowl.

4.  In bottom of original saucepan, layer eggplant slices, then cauliflower, then meat. Add rice last and push down with spatula to compress layers.

5. Place a large plate upside-down on top of pan. Flip contents of pan as gracefully as possible onto plate.*

6. Top maqluba with crushed nuts and season with salt and pepper to taste.

*My technique, as you can see from the photo, needs some work as my maqluba emerged less angular and more hill-like. 

Toum For The Touchdown!

Houston, we have a quarterback. To celebrate, a culinary touchdown in the form of toum (also spelled 'toom' in some Syrian cookbooks).  Toum is the ketchup of Middle Eastern food (or is ketchup the toum of American food?); an omnipresent condiment, it is used to dress grilled meats, sandwiches, even rice. The ingredients are simple, but the preparation more sophisticated, for its success depends on delicate emulsion.  Don't throw all the ingredients in a blender and expect to have anything resembling the correct end product. Patience is key.

Ingredients

• 5 garlic cloves

• 1 egg white

• Juice of 1 lemon

• 1 cup vegetable oil

• ice water on hand

Directions

1. Place garlic and roughly 1/4 of the lemon juice in a food processor. Pulse on medium.

2. Add half the egg white and pulse again on medium.

3. Gradually add the half oil. And, I mean, gradually. Pulse intermittently on medium.

4. Add remainder of lemon juice and egg white. Pulse on low.

5. Add remainder of oil, again slowly. Pulse on low.

6. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of ice water. Pulse on low until mixture just reaches creaminess.

Slather on your choice of protein.

Recipe: Ardi Shoki Blahmi (Stuffed Artichoke Hearts)

As promised, I'm celebrating that artichokes are in season by using them in some Syrian dishes. First up,  ardi shoki blahmi, Syrian stuffed artichoke hearts (with a bit of modification).  Before embarking on this recipe, consider whether you want to butcher whole artichokes in order to secure some hearts or just buy a can or jar of artichoke hearts. The former option is appropriate given chokies are in season but can get expensive if you want to make a large batch. The latter option is definitely not as cool but cheaper and yields meal-size portions. I'm sure you can guess what option this hungry runner selected.

Also note that regardless which option you choose, manipulating the hearts into little cups for the stuffing is a delicate, challenging process that is not to be done in a rush with heavy hands. 

Ingredients

• 1 can or jar artichoke hearts (in water, if possible, not oil)

• 1 medium onion (chopped)

• 1/2 pound ground lamb OR chopped lamb shank meat

• 1 tablespoon allspice

• 1/4 cup parsley (chopped)

• 1/4 cup roasted eggplant (chopped)

• lemon juice

• olive oil

• chicken broth or stock (about a 2 cups)

• 1 teaspoon cornstarch

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Chopped nuts (pinenuts are most authentic; peanuts will due if you were absent-minded at the store)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Sauté onion in olive oil until transparent. Add lamb and cook until just brownish.  Sprinkle with all-spice and mix well.

3. Remove meat and onions from pan and combine with chopped parsley and chopped roasted eggplant. Drizzle with lemon juice.

4. If your artichoke hearts still have the stem attached, trim so they rest flat on your baking dish. Push down inner most petals to create space for stuffing; try to keep outer petals intact to serve as 'sides' of your 'cup.'  Stuff with meat and vegetable mixture. In separate bowl, combine chicken broth and cornstarch.

5. Arrange stuffed artichoke hearts in pan. Pour chicken broth and cornstarch mixture into pan until liquid level just reaches top of hearts. You will probably have extra liquid.

6.  Cover with aluminum foil and bake for about 1 hour. Baste occasionally with any remaining chicken stock.

7. Remove from oven and garnish with chopped nuts, salt, pepper. Eat while watching Grace & Frankie.

Syrian Ingredients In Season: Artichokes!

This post is the first of a series highlighting seasonal ingredients that feature prominently in Syrian cooking. I am thrilled that the inaugural episode focuses on the artichoke, one of my favorite vegetables for its alluring, challenging qualities.

And that's on a good day. On a bad day, artichokes are painfully difficult to prepare well comprehensively and annoying to eat. But every day they are oh-so-satisfying.

Incidentally, although most people associate artichokes with Israel, (i.e., Jerusalem artichokes), Italy actually leads the globe in production. But their choice species is typically the small, purple artichoke not the larger, green variety favored in the Middle East.

Later this week, I will feature one of my favorite Syrian recipes featuring artichokes. For now, a simple, almost fool-proof method of roasting the full flowers.

Ingredients

• 4 large artichokes

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• 4 cloves of garlic

• salt

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2. Cut off stem of the artichoke where it meets the base. Invert artichoke, then slice 1 inch off the top. 

3. Tear off 4 square pieces of foil, large enough to cover each artichoke. Rub each piece with a few drops of olive oil, then place artichoke on foil stem side down.

4. Stick 1 garlic clove into center of each artichoke until it is wedged about 1 inch inside. 

5. Sprinkle each artichoke with salt and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. 

6. Bring four corners of foil square together to "package" artichoke, covering completely and sealing tightly. Repeat for other three artichokes.

7. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Let rest for about 15 minutes before gorging, er, I mean, serving.

(Not So) Foul Salad

The first challenge with Foul is that its name is unfortunately an unappealing English cognate.

The second challenge with  Foul is finding its star ingredient, fava beans, also known as broad beans also known as faba beans also known as field beans also known as bell beans also known as pigeon peas also known as horse beans...you get the picture. Turns out, a fava bean by any other name is still a fava bean.

Kroger's canned vegetable aisle boasted at least 20 different types of beans but none of them were labeled with the aforementioned monikers. On a hunch, I skipped to the "International Foods" section and located a can of "Pigeon Peas" on the English shelf.  Hurrah.

After that, it's pretty simple. Fava beans are prominently featured in many Arab dishes, including some common in Syria, in part because they're easy to grow and yield abundant harvests even under harsh conditions. Usually, fava beans are incorporated into a mezze or side dish and sometimes even are presented warm and mashed. I wanted to preserve the integrity of the beans' shape and texture, so I kept them whole and took a cue (once again) from Syrian Foodie in London in assembling a salad.

Ingredients

• 2 cups canned fava beans (drained)--or if you're really ambitious (I'm not!) cook fresh ones

• 3 tablespoons cilantro

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Combine beans, cilantro, garlic, and lemon juice well. 

2. Slowly stir in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with lemon slice.

Eat right away with a fork, or more preferably, with pita and sparkling apple cider.

Artichoke Salad

I love artichokes but the preparation their raw form requires intimidates me. Oh hell, who am I kidding? I'm not afraid; I'm just lazy. Despite the luscious rewards of preparing buttery roasted artichokes, I am much happier, usually, to settle for less unctuous but still satisfying marinated artichoke hearts. Artichoke are prominently featured in Syrian cooking, with many recipes involving stuffing the hearts with spices, pine nuts, and ground meat. Some day, I will make those recipes. 

Beautiful but a bitch to prepare.

Last night I was just fine with making an artichoke salad inspired by a memory of a similar botanical assemblage I enjoyed during my first visit to Damascus.

Ingredients

• 5-7 Artichoke hearts marinated in oil (from a jar like this from your local supermarket)

• 1 large tomato (chopped)

• 1/2 red onion (chopped)

• 4 tablespoons parsley (chopped)

• More olive oil (if necessary)

• Salt and pepper

Directions

Toss artichoke hearts, tomato, onion, and parsley together in a medium bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste and more olive oil if you like. 

Recipe: Sujuk (Syrian sausage...sort of) With Hummus

Sujuk is apparently a very common Syrian dish as well as a specialty of Damascus but I managed not to eat it during my two trips. I even dined twice at Naranj, where SyrianFoodieinLondon enjoyed sujuk with hummus and it escaped my notice. Fail. One more reason why it's important to do research before you visit a country in order to compile a comprehensive eating itinerary. But also another reason (as if I needed more) to return to Syria.

Ingredients

• Hummus (duh)

• 1 pound minced lamb

• 1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter)

• 2 teaspoons paprika

• 2 teaspoons dried chili flakes

• 1 tablespoon minced garlic (or garlic powder if you're strapped)

• 2 teaspoons allspice

Directions

1. Pan-fry the lamb in ghee until it just begins to turn brown.

2. Add garlic and spices.

3. Lower heat and cook until all water has evaporated and lamb begins to get crispy (but not dry!). Might take 20-30 minutes. 

Spoon onto hummus and eat straight with a spoon. Or, with pita bread if others are watching.

Recipe: Fatayer

I'm trying to step it up a notch with regards to the complexity of the recipes I'm attempting, and to that end, I made fatayer this past weekend. Fatayer (spinach pies) are popular all over the Middle East and a staple of mezze menus in Damascus. The biggest challenge is shaping the dough into compact triangles around a heaping tablespoon or so of filling. After a few false starts, I got the hang of it. If you don't have time to make dough, you can use store-bought pie crust.

DOUGH

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon active dry yeast

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1 cup warm water

• 3 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/3 cup vegetable oil

DIRECTIONS

1. Activate yeast by dissolving it in 1/4 cup of warm water with sugar. Let rest 10 minutes.

2. Whisk together flour and salt in a medium bowl. With a spoon, create a well or small gap in the center of the dry mixture and add the oil and yeast mixture. 

3. Using an electric mixer, slowly combine the wet and dry ingredients. Add the remaining 3/4 cup of water slowly. 

4. Remove dough from bowl (will be sticky) and knead by hand about 5 minutes or until dough is firm.

5. Spritz a large bowl with cooking spray. Transfer dough into bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let dough rest until doubled in size (about 1.5 hours).

Lovely pockets of goodness.

FILLING & PIES

Ingredients

• 2 lbs frozen chopped spinach (thawed and patted until completely dry)

• 1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

• 1/2 cup pine nuts

• sesame seeds for dusting

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine spinach, onion, salt, lemon juice, cinnamon, and pine nuts.

 

2.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

3. Dust a large cutting board or surface with flour. Roll out the dough to 1/8 thickness and cut into circles (you can use a water glass) roughly 4 inches in diameter. Reknead dough and repeat until all dough is used up.

4. Place a tablespoon or so of filling in center of each dough circle. Fold sides around fillings to form a triangle. This recipe has some helpful photos.

5. Place fatayer on baking sheets and brush with olive oil. Sprinkle liberally with sesame seeds. Bake for 18-20 minutes until brown.

Serve hot to guests; eat cold leftovers the next day for breakfast.