Georgia On My Mind...And In My Wine Fridge

This past week I have been grateful to Georgias.

Yes, the plural.

First, the state whose voters elected to dump Trump, thus securing Biden an additional 16 electoral votes and (further) paving his path to presidential victory.

Second, the nation whose alarmingly underappreciated wines I have been drinking to mitigate my election anxiety, then celebrate sweet success.

Georgia (hereafter in reference to the country) has been producing wine for approximately 8 thousand years, and I am ashamed to write that I learned that fact roughly 8 weeks ago when I received an announcement regarding the release of some new vintages for export to the United States.

As of 2019, there were 1088 registered wineries in Georgia (many of them family-owned for generations), and 350 were able to ship their products to the United States. My 2021 goal may be to try a bottle from a different winery (almost) every day for the entire year.

And not only have Georgians been producing wine for a long time, they have been making many, many different types of it, thanks to the country’s rich varied topography, which supports 525 species of grapes.

Word on the international street, however, is getting out regarding Georgia’s robust wine culture, and exports to American alone increased by 46% from 2018 to 2019.

When I was initially offered the opportunity to try a few different varieties, I was dubious. Although my interest in food is wide-ranging, my taste in wine is far more limited: I like pinotage, some cabernets, and pretty much any hard California chardonnay I ever met.

Three bottles of Georgian wine later, and I feel like a kid who has ventured for the first time beyond block where she grew up and discovers a whole new neighborhood of undiscovered delights.

Why Georgian Wine Deserves A Place In Your Pandemic Pantry

Because they’re damn good in all sorts of different ways. Let me elaborate.

In dipping my toe, or, my tongue rather, in the world of Georgian wine, I initially didn’t stray far from my comfort zone and first sampled a 2015 Stori Marani Mtsvane, a trim, slightly effervescent white that was aged in a qvevri, a type of terra-cotta clay pot buried underground.

Georgian wine-makers have been utilizing qvevri for thousands of years, but the practice declined during the Soviet era and is only recently being revived. This treatment heightens the complexity of the flavor profile; case in point, when drinking the Mtsvane, I first tasted citrus, followed by a fleeting earthy sweetness, then finally a lovely floral finish. Though game for a second glass, I reserved the remainder to sip while snuggling up with a cheese plate.

Next, I moved on to a 2015 Telavi Old Cellar’s Rkatsiteli, one of the most popular wine grapes grown in Georgia due to its hearty constitution, which renders resistant to drastic temperature changes. Its medium body gave rise to a richer mouthfeel with stronger alcoholic undertones, but I like my white wines large and in charge, so kept drinking. The perfect meal match for the Rkatsiteli would be something equally robust; dare I suggest (other) Georgia-style fried chicken and macaroni and cheese?

Last but not least, I moved on to 2018 Tbilvino Tsinandali, which is produced by blending the aforementioned mtsvane and rkatsiteli varietals. In combination what emerges is a refreshing, pleasantly aggressive fruity wine whose end notes are impeccably smooth. It would make pair wonderfully with seafood dishes, perhaps a shrimp curry or bouillabaisse.

My tasting flight of Georgian wine has me fancying someday enjoying another type of flight, maybe to Tbilisi, so I can embark on a proper viticultural tour. But since for the foreseeable future I won’t be hopping on a plane (or even a midnight train to the other Georgia for that matter), I am grateful I can travel vicariously to this intriguing nation by indulging in its remarkable vino.

Want to stock your pandemic pantry with Georgian wine? See these retailers or buy online.